It looks like a (beat up, old) car again!

We got a new air filter.  Yea, that was actually pretty hard to find.  Eli put the fenders and bumper back on.  Check it out:

Notice the blue(ish) door.  We got that off craigslist from a nice guy named Gene.  It has all the internal hardware (or most of it).  So, now both doors actually latch closed!

Here it is running for the first time without fluids spewing out of it or anything.  Some idiot at the wheel is pulling a stupid face.  Classy:

So, the choke is busted. But we opened the brakes and were surprised to see them in good shape!  It might be time for a test drive soon.

This stuff (used old door, air filter) cost: $83

Total project cost: 3639.51

It started!

We had our expert (Pawpaw) come over after we put the carburetor on and we began pretending like we knew how to get this car running.  We discovered that we pinched a metal fuel line and leaked the foulest smelling gasoline I've ever smelled all over myself and the garage floor, but we routed it around the hole temporarily.  After replacing the points in the distributor and getting an education on timing we manually shoved the choke closed and cranked the engine until, to Eli's glee, the thing fired up and ran!

The distributor does what?

Then it promptly started spewing oil out of the bell housing.  35 seconds of elation followed by disappointment.

How does oil get into the bell housing?  Why, through the rear main seal, of course!  So, pull the engine back out.  The rebuild kit that we had used came with an old rope-style seal, and Pawpaw warned us at that time about those.  Well, after pulling the engine out we saw that it was, in fact, pinched and rammed itself over exposing about a quarter inch of rear main with no seal at all.  Hence the rather profuse leak.

We noticed two more bad things as well.

First of all, there were metal shavings in the oil pan.

yea.  NOT GOOD.

Upon further inspection though, it turned out that it wasn't as catastrophic as we had feared.  The flex plate bolts are just a little too long and apparently the new crank bearings have a side flange that is microscopically wider than the old one and the bolts rubbed their ends on it.

Simple fix: clean out the oil pan and get some washers for those bolts to make them shorter.  They probably had washers on them in 1968, but someone between then and now lost/discarded them.  We didn't lose them.  I swear.

Second, we noticed a leaking freeze plug.  Rookie mistake here: we should have replaced the freeze plugs when we had the engine out the first time.  So, we decided to do it with it out the second time.  That meant we had to remove the exhaust manifold (which we also should have just done the first time around).  And we promptly broke 3 bolts.

new freeze plugs and a couple broken bolts.

So, drill, drill, break drill bits, tap, buy new bolts, etc... No problem.  What a pain.

Putting the engine in with the transmission already in the car was a new challenge, but we man-handled it just right and got everything bolted back in.  We even put in the new fuel line tube.  Then, with no exhaust pipe connected, we cranked it over again and it started right up and ran!

All of this happened in about a week.  Eli is more excited than ever to drive the thing now.  He scrubbed the old carpet and put it back in with the old seats.  He then put all the fenders back on except the drivers side because we still need to fix that door.  Next up: exhaust pipe and brake system.

This stuff (freeze plugs, bolts, points) cost: $50

Total project cost: 3556.51

Those torque boxes

So, we've recently been working on replacing torque boxes and front floor panels.  To save money Eli decided that we'd just use metal from an old lawn tractor trailer for the floor boards.  We did purchase a new passenger torque box ($87.99) as it was completely rotted.

from the outside bottom

rot cut out and new box half in

complete box in

floor metal welded down

I forgot to take pictures of the driver's side torque box, but it wasn't nearly as rotted as the passenger side.  So, we patched the one bad rusty spot on the box and took the same sheet metal approach on the floor.

floor metal

before, and Eli is going to town grinding

So, it took longer than expected, but it wasn't too expensive.  Also, I should note that we welded a small support from the floor support to the rocker panel on either side since our floor metal wasn't grooved like the original and we worried about flexing.  It's solid as a rock now, so I'm not sure that was necessary, but it's there!  He's ready to put the old carpet back in and bolt the seats back down.

Eli put in a new replacement heater core ($25) too and some new heater hoses.  Oddly enough, the radiator hoses looked pretty new so we'll reuse those until they explode.  It's now ready to fill up with anti-freeze.

Also, we put new front brake hoses on ($12 x 2).  So, in theory we could put in some brake fluid and see if that works too!

This stuff cost: $136.99

Total project cost:  $3506.51